Pulitzer Prize: A Dam Good Stay in Amsterdam
I don't know about you, but one of the best things about England is its proximity to Europe. We have the delights of the continent right on our doorstep, and it never feels closer than when you're about to board the Eurostar. Everyone gathers together as your train is called—are you headed for Gay Paris? Or a meeting in Brussels? In my fortunate case, I was waiting to enjoy the delights of Amsterdam. No, not those delights, but rather the ones that have made the city one of the most notably ravishing in the world. So much so that on exiting the station, you hear our friends from across the pond, often marvelling at how old everything looks and how bloody lovely it is. And they are right to do so—those who do not delight in the streets of Amsterdam are like those who turn a blind eye to Venice: their hearts and eyes are tired of beauty.
I've been to Amsterdam a few times before, each time staying in a variety of accommodations. When I was a wee babe of 25, I fittingly shared a bed with a friend interning there. Since then, there has been an assortment of Airbnbs and hotels on the fringe. So you can imagine my excitement when I got the offer to stay at the Pulitzer Amsterdam, a hotel I'd heard about in all the finest travel recommendations for the city, though it always felt a little out of my league. But I guess someone has to do it.
We arrived at this hub of activity in the early afternoon. Due to the Pulitzer's gleaming reputation for food, drink, and beauty, they have garnered a host of fans, all of whom seemed to be frequenting the hotel at once. No surprise, as we were there at the end of June. Side note: It was a delightful time to visit; the weather was similar to England's but just a bit warmer and sunnier. I was shown to my suite—yes, suite. It was the Art Collector's Suite, which suited me just fine. The walls were fittingly adorned with a variety of pieces from the Pulitzer art collection, including an extraordinary six-meter-long painting by Thierry Bruet. As I was ahead of time for the main event, I popped out for a little shopping. I happened upon an excellent antique centre; I bought no tat but did fall for a rather ghastly pair of earrings.
On my return, I readied myself for the main event. We were there to celebrate the opening of several snazzy new suites designed by British designer Jacu Strauss, who was the project's Creative Director. In 2016, he led the redesign of the Pulitzer, and now he was back to bring a flurry of eccentric and exciting suites to life. Each one followed a theme closely tied to its title. The Flower Collector's Suite was filled with floral oil paintings, perhaps one or two done by the design team, hidden amongst the aged paintings. There was also the unveiling of the Merchant's Suite, which would house a family of six with space for dining, relaxing, and views across the canal. Here, we had welcome drinks and heard how some of the first guests, Swifties, had really put the room through its paces—dancing on tables and leaving whopping amounts of glitter in their wake.
The crowning glory of the evening was, of course, a dinner in the garden of the Pulitzer—an Italian delight in the heart of the Netherlands, only cut slightly short by a dash to see the last of England's efforts in the Euros. No surprises to anyone—there weren't even three cheers for the Lions. Much derision was made of our loss at the bar around the corner, but we held our heads high as we headed back to the Pulitzer to indulge in those colossal threaded sheets.
The next day, after one of the most idyllic breakfasts looking out over the canal, we visited the magnificent studio of Anouk Beerents, an antique mirror specialist whose studio is a haven for anyone who prefers their reflection a little mottled. We then boated over to the Rembrandt House Museum, where I was mesmerized by his etchings. There are no words I can write that haven’t already been written about Rembrandt, but suffice it to say those etchings stole my gaze for quite some time.
To finish our whirlwind trip, Jes Salter and I took a quick trip to Ons' Lieve Heer op Solder, one of my favorite house museums, which, if you go to Amsterdam, you must take a moment to visit.
What can one say about a whirlwind trip to Amsterdam? When you are lucky enough to be taken, you must go. But even if you have to shell out for it yourself, well, of course, you must go.
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